By Catherine T. Anderson

Last month, on the outstandingly gorgeous day of November 3rd, Governor Phil Bredesen ceremoniously unveiled the brown and ivory sign in downtown Franklin that marks the northern-most point in the Old Tennessee Settlers to Soldier Historic Trail—it was the official launch of the Discover Tennessee Trails and Byways program.

Bredesen gave full credit for the statewide project that will provide 15 marked trails noted for their beauty and/or historic signifi-cance to Leiper's Fork visionary Aubrey Preston. Preston and Deborah Warnick of the Williamson County Convention & Visitors Bureau approached the state's tourism department early this year with the original idea that evolved into a far-reaching plan that directly affects 95 counties and serves multiple purposes including economic stimulation while preserving and maintaining significant historic settings.

A Three Hour Tour Photographs by Catherine Anderson

Two weeks later, it was on the trail again, this time with Leiper's Fork residents Mary Murphy (current president of the Community As-sociation) and Laura Musgrave, Manager of Williamson County Visitors Services. Laura drove, Mary sat in the back and this writer was desig-nated navigator, a role failed constantly, as the rolling hill views in late autumn constantly triggered an inclination for daydreams.

Beginning in Leiper's Fork, the trail's course was familiar to all until we were south of Bethel, the little storybook community just over the Maury County line. We stopped at the Fly Store to buy a drink and chat with its owner, Wilson Fly, who knows the area like the back of his hand and can offer encyclope-dic information about it. From there, the drive through Water Valley quieted our chatter, as we absorbed the views and were charmed by the little community still standing.

As the route twisted and turned, we were consistently impressed by the excellent signage that carefully directed us. Try as we might to refer to the travel brochure provided by the state, it was a constant battle of where to direct our atten-tion: words or scenery, scenery or words. This trail can be traveled dozens of times and continue to offer new discoveries.
On the edge of Williamsport we stopped to walk around the Claiborne African Methodist Episcopal Church, a pro-gressive 19th century denomination that held people of African heritage equal with those of European ancestry—not a con-cept generally regarded by southern whites at that time.

A few miles distant, Laura asked to jump off-trail (well instructed by the brochure) to visit
Williamsport's Zion Presbyterian Church and we were delighted with her wish. Driving up to it for the first time is a bit of a jaw-dropping experience. The church, its grounds, school and cemetery all appear to have been meticulously maintained from its antebellum inception; this despite war, economic downturns and any natural catastrophes that may have occurred. A walk around the headstones and marble monuments that fill the front churchyard inspired deep respect along with an abiding sense of history.

Back on route, we hightailed it to Mount Pleasant to eat at Mt Pleasant Grille, which we learned, is closed on Mondays. Stomachs growling, we acknowledged the lovely, large historic homes along North Main and further out, the Polk mansions (we'll be back for those tours) but screeched to a halt just passing St. John's Church. Hungry or not, we knew we had to go back to get a better look. Little did we know until we'd returned, we missed the most beautiful part by not walking around the back.

By now our time allotted was running out, so a delicious lunch at Square Market Café in Co-lumbia and a quick visit with Corinne Wells at the Maury County Visitors & Conventions Bureau was all we had time for.

Mary finished the trip saying, "I can't wait for the kids to come visit. I know exactly what we can do next time they're here." Likewise, Laura's wheels are turning as well for her stream of out-of-towners. The ideas are endless for entertaining, relaxing, escaping or connecting. Travel it—by guide or alone, car, motorcycle, bicycle, even on foot—and you will be better for the experience.

This article was printed in the December 2009 issue of Hills & Hamlets. ©2009